Once Upon A Dream

Nothing makes you feel like you're getting old more than being asked to DJ a YM/YW dance and then having to be the censor when the kids request something.  I actually had to look up popular music from the last 2 years.  I kept saying things like "I have no idea what the kids listen to these days."  The YM/YW were supposed to submit their playlists to the Bishop for approval.  Neither group was able to complete this task in a timely manner and so I was recommended by Hannah to her mother the YW president as someone who has a lot of music.  Hannah then asked me if my computer could be made available to host all of the music.  I of course obliged and offered to put together a playlist myself.  But then I realized that I'm out of the loop as far as top 40's are concerned, I don't know what is considered appropriate.  Since foul language is defined by the culture, I didn't know which culture was defining the foul language.  So I got together with Hannah a couple of nights before the dance (I torrented the Billboard top 100 from 2010 and 2009 and listened/read through each song.  More than half of it was either deemed inappropriate by my somewhat low standards of propriety or it was just garbage that I refused to promote) and weeded out another 10%.  I filled out the time with some of my favorite anthems.  

Hannah and me spinnin some sweet mixes...

I felt pretty confident in my music selection being appropriate and hip to the groove of today's youth.  At the dance I had the assistance of Benjamin, one of the young men in the ward.  He had his computer and after reading a few more lyric sheets I approved a few of his tunes.  He has a pretty good taste in American music for an Austrian kid.  It took some reassurance to the kiddies that I'm really not too much older than they are and I have impeccable taste in music, popular and otherwise.  At one point the bishop asked me if I could play something a little more danceable... he also checked on my list and me at the beginning of the dance.  The whole time I was a little paranoid that something on my list would not be exactly church appropriate, despite my meticulous and painful check and double checks.  Things there wrapped up pretty nicely.  I had a set play list but adjusted it according to request and crowd reaction to any given song.  I actually ended up having quite a lot of fun.  Not that I really care if the kids think I'm cool, but it sure would help me feel a bit more my age.  I remember being their age and thinking the YSA were the coolest ever.  Well I'm a YSA and an auslanderin (foreigner), I should be a dead ringer.  Sister Fuchs took me home so that I could get a good night sleep before my pending adventure.

Saturday morning I woke up and printed my maps and called a couple of hostels to check on availability.  I packed my bag and prettied myself and set out for the train station.  I made it in plenty of time on a beautiful, sunshiny albeit windy morning. My train was a little late and so I had to hurry to my connection.  When the RailJet arrived it was already packed!  And there were a ton of people waiting on the platform.  This was my first experience with the fact that buying a ticket does not guarantee you a seat on a train.  You don’t have a reserved place, or even a reserved train, when you purchase a ticket, you are purchasing the service of being transported from one place to another.  A faster train doesn’t cost more. A shorter route doesn’t cost less.  

You win some, you lose some.  Unpleasant life experience? Check.

And so, I ended up sitting in the space between cars.  On a RailJet the cars have one long compartment and at either end is an entrance from the platform or a WC.  The cars are connected by those rubber accordion thingys.  I sat on the floor leaning against someone’s baby stroller for the entire journey as there were no stops between Linz and Vienna.  I could have waited for the next train from Linz, I certainly had time, but I would have been waiting at least an hour at the Linz train station, which is not exactly the coolest place to hang out when I could be wandering around Vienna.  And so I endured; cramped legs and sleepy feet, people needing to get past me or step over me, all for the sake of Ben.  When I did finally get to Vienna I walked to the hostel at which I stayed last time and checked in, I set up my bed locked up my belongings and went out on an adventure/search for torte and AA batteries.  This led me around around the Rathouse and Bergtheater.  I found cake (ich hatte Torte gefunden) at Cafe Landtmann which is adjacent to the Bergtheater. 

Bergtheater

Rathaus

The Cafe is almost 140 years old and was a favorite haunt of Sigmund Freud's and of Gustav Mahler's.  And the torte was amazing of course I forget what it was called but it was something like Wienerkirsch Torte or Mozart Kirsche Torte at any rate it had cherries (Kirschen) and was delicious.  The the hot chocolate is served with a glass of water on the side because it is so rich and you'd never be able to finish it without water.  I continued my journey by wandering through the museum district and the Volksgarten and out away from the touristy Dr. Karl-Renner Ring.  As I was walking through the Museumsquartier on an upper walkway I looked down into one of the loading areas and lo and behold 

A TOUR BUS!  BEN'S TOUR BUS!  At least at that point I only thought it was (it turned out I was correct) and I made a mental note to return later that evening.  I went in search of batteries, I couldn't find a drug store and I wasn't willing to pay what they'd be asking at a souvenir shop so I got back on the subway went back to Gumpfendorfer Straße where I could find a drug store only to find what I had forgotten, that drug stores and grocery stores and many and most other stores close at 6 pm.  The only things that are open are restaurants, cafes and tobacco shops.  So I got my batteries at a tobacco shop in the subway station and high tailed it back to the MQ.  As much as I enjoy going to concerts at bars and clubs it really is nice to attend at a venue that has a coat check and restrooms that you're not weary to enter.  I was about the 3rd person into the venue shortly afterward I heard a couple of girls speaking english, and not the way Austrians speak english but the way the English speak english.  Alice and Lizzy are from London and Bristol respectively but are currently studying at the British School in Rome.  Ben wasn't playing any shows in Italy and so they made the trip up to Vienna.  They're super cool girls.  For some reason they didn't have a camera with them, I don't remember what the reason was but I offered to e-mail them my pictures and thus a fast friendship was born.  Concerts are always more fun when you're with someone that is equally excited about the show.

The opening act was a Australian chick named Kate Miller-Heidke.  And to put it briefly, she's brilliant.  She's like a mix of Regina Spektor, Lily Allen and Kristin Chenoweth (specifically "The Girl in 14G") she was accompanied by her husband/guitarist.  She's a little folk, a little pop and a little opera.  Her studio recordings are more similar to Lily Allen as far as instrumentation is concerned.  But seriously, look her up because she rocks. 

Me Alice and Lizzy in between sets, that's Ben's piano behind us

From the moment Ben came on the stage I knew it was going to be an extraordinary evening.  Standing on the front row, dead in the middle of the stage I could see his face (as he plays standing most of the time) When I saw him the first and second times I was quite far back, at House Of Blues I was stage right so I could see his hands, with the Utah Symphony I was seated and so this was really my first time from this vantage point.  Best place in the house as far as the whole concert experience is concerned.  They opened with Levi Johnston's Blues which got every one in a sing along mood.  Ben isn't much for talking on stage but when he talked about writing "Lonely Avenue" with Nick Hornby his face lit up like he was talking about meeting one of his favorite celebrities.  

It's kind of traditional for Ben Folds to play a cover song on each tour.  Ben talked about how the way this cover song was chosen was something of a crap shoot.  The guys got on iTunes, and picked the single that was #1 at that very point in time.  I groaned.  I don't exactly have the greatest faith in the American music consumer.  Next he mentioned that is was a Ke$ha cover I groaned an audible expletive.  Ben pointed at me and said "she's my friend" and told us that the #1 song of that moment was "Sleazy" and it was replaced as #1 17 minutes later by another Ke$ha song.  Ben went on to ask who of us are students of music. A good number of people raised their hands.  Ben explained that he had reharmonized and remelodized "Sleazy" but because the lyrics are classic he left them alone.  Then it started.  And Ben began to dance as only a middle aged, white boy from North Carolina can.  That performance is a testament to his brilliance as a musician and entertainer.  

This was Ben's first performance ever in Austria.  As such, many of the fans didn't know the little audience participation bits and so I was the pinch hitter.  When Ben was doing his solo stuff it was me that called for his classic improv number (he doesn't always play it when it's requested, but when he does it's in a new style, with new lyrics and new chords.  Only one line of lyrics is maintained) This time, he started singing about the time he spent as a foreign exchange student in Vienna and then started using German words that he remembered.  He finished it off with a story about riding the U4 (subway line 4) and a little old lady on the platform with a very powerful dog with a muzzle on.  The dog got loose, jumped in to the pit and "the American and that's me (Ben) decided to be Superman" he jumped into the pit chased the dog and heard the little old lady, who had up to this point said nothing, yell ER KOMMT! (It's coming!) he heard the whistle, no one tried to help him with the dog or to get out of the pit.  But as it turns out they were both fine and Ben saved the day.  But he "got dirt on [his] shirt that [he] had to wear all day".  It was a great tune, my favorite version that I've heard to date.

When the band joined Ben back on stage they continued to rock the house and the Suburbs.

Ben Rockin the Suburbs.  He left his keytar at home I guess, so he improvised.

Ben has a new bass player these days (since about October I think he said) his name is Ryan.  And he totally killed the bass solo at the end of Rockin' the Suburbs ("killed" in the rock and roll sense of the word)

He's an incredibly talented youngish man even if his stage presence left something to be desired.  But then I guess that's pretty normal for a bass player. Oh also he's very attractive.

They ended the set with Not The Same, the song about the guy that climbed up a tree on acid at a party and the next morning came down a born again Christian.  After a quick harmony lesson we were off.  As the band  took their leave, Ben came along the front of the stage (don't worry he didn't fall off) and shook our hands and not the way you shake hands at the end of your soccer games when you're 8 years old, but real true two handed shakes.  After about one beer's time of the crowd calling for an encore, they came back on stage; but instead of crossing the front of the stage to the piano, Ben crossed to the auxiliary percussion area.  Aux. perc. guy (Tambourine Man) sat down at the kit.  Ryan strapped into his bass and Sam stood at the keyboards.  And a jam session commenced. 

Ben was a percussion performance major at the University of Miami

They then kicked off "Philosophy" which was the first Ben Folds Five song I ever heard way back in 1998.  It is still one of my favorite songs.  Especially the part where the background vocals say "My Phil" and Ben sings "keeps me walkin' when I'm fallin' down" and the band sings "aaaaaah-sooooooh-pheeeee".  I get a kick out of it every time.  It's very clever.  The harmonies are super tight and the piano intro is delightful, and there's nothing quite like a well placed (well tuned) falsetto, of which Ben is the Master.  

The finished the night officially with "Underground" another personal favorite (but let's be completely honest, there aren't many songs [ok any songs] by Ben that I skip on the ole iPod) but this song is one from my early days of fandom.  It's an anthem of sorts.  For those of you familiar with the live NBP recording of this song, I managed that bit of audience participation as well.  This song reminds me of Crazy Uncle Joe.  This song and "Closing Time" by Semisonic, get us to halt a conversation, crank the volume and sing along as loud as we can, and then pick up the conversation where we left off.

When the guys left the stage for real, the roadie came out and started cleaning up.  Part of this process includes removing set lists from the different areas of the stage, five in total.  Well I just happened to get one.  A random 40something Austrian guy came and asked if he could take a picture of it.  He told me that I was the most deserving of it and that I knew when to do everything.  He basically said that I was the best fan, which isn't entirely untrue.  I took his picture holding the list.  Then he asked if he could take a picture of the Best Fan (me) holding the list.

Alice, Lizzy and I continued out to get our coats and to hit the merch table.  I bought a tour poster, it's pretty sweet lookin'.  We walked outside with the specific intent of loitering around the tour bus until Ben came out.  On our way we ran into Ryan.  We got to chatting a bit.  I found out he's from Cali and he's been bassing for Ben for about 5 months.  He found out that I'm from Utah, a musician and an Au Pair.  He asked me if I was Mormon, I said I was, somewhat sheepishly.  He high fived me and said it was nothing to be ashamed of.  I told him that I'm not the typical Utah Mormon, I curse occasionally, I watch whatever movies I want to, I have gay friends.  He added "and you probably drink Dr. Pepper too" with mock disappointment in his voice.  I nodded.  Lizzy asked him if Ben was still around, he said he didn't think so and that Ben usually went straight to the hotel.  We thanked him, he signed my set list, I took a picture and he took his leave. 

Me and Ryan outside of Museumsquartier in Vienna

Well we weren't going to take his word for it.  And so we walked back into the the loading area where we found the tour bus.  And the loitering began.  A couple of other Americans joined the loitery.  Eric and Jessica are living in Vienna studying.  Their Masters degree is some sort of cultural/social type.  I don't remember exactly what it was called but they spend 6 months in each of   four different cities/countries, which seems like a pretty great way to spend two years.  

me, the set list, the tour bus

Then we saw some stirring near the loading dock, the roadies came out and started loading up the truck.  Sam (the drummer) came out and the 5 of us went to talk to him.  Erica asked him if Ben was still inside.  Same said he thought he probably was.  With our hopes lifted a little, we continued to talk to Sam trying not to show our anxiety building at the prospect of meeting Mr. Folds.  He allowed me a picture and signed my set list.  He's very goofy.  Perfect for a drummer.

Me and Sam by the tour bus.

And then, the moment I'd been waiting for from the time I was eleven years old.  Ladies and Gentlemen...

MISTER

-----

BEN

-----

FOLDS!

[insert 1000 words here]

He came out,  walked past us with a back pack on, climbed into the tour bus and.... came back out, walking directly toward us.  My heart jumped up into my throat.  I suddenly realized that I hadn't thought through any conversation points.  I panicked.  I want to be witty and memorable, but intelligent and grown up (yes I realize that anyone who calls them self a grown up is probably not a grown up).  Well we all kind of introduced ourselves.  Traded a few anecdotes.  Ben did an impression of Neil Young.  I told him about the American Table Dance Bar in Marchtrenk. 

He laughed.  

Well chuckled really.

Ben Folds chuckled at something I said

He chuckled then muttered bemusedly back to himself "American Table Dance Bar" in his very subtle southern accent.

He told us more stories about studying in Vienna and how great it was to be back.  I got my picture, and his autograph.  All the while squealing like a 13 year old girl at a Backstreet Boys concert, on the inside of course.  Outwardly I was pretty selfless, cold and composed.  I wasn't over anxious, I didn't try to monopolize the conversation.  I was just another member of his typically intellectual fan base.  

After about 20 minutes he got on the bus and Lizzy, Alice and I headed for the UBahn station we rode the U2 from MQ to Volkstheater, where we transferred to the U3.  On the platform I saw a familiar face.  It was Dagobert.  I unmistakably recognized him.  I was not sure that he'd seen me or, if he had, if he would recognize me.  After a couple of double takes each, I started with "heeeey" and he said "I know you..." and I said "Yeah, from the Linz Tanzabend. You taught me to discofox, I was terrible." And he said "Yes! Betty right?" He was one of the first people I'd used the new nick name with as an introduction.  I said "yeah, sorry again about my dancing" to which he replied "well, we'll just have to practice again sometime."   He asked me where I was staying, I assured him it wasn't someplace dodgy and we parted ways. Now Vienna's a pretty big city, and it was 1:30 in the morning, there are six subway lines and dozens of stations with at least two platforms each.  I was certainly not expecting to run into someone that I knew.  But I'm not complaining.  He's a pretty cool guy and I got to explain to Alice and Lizzy how I knew him.  

Lizzy and Alice got off the train one stop before me, I walked back to my hostel, set my alarm and tried to sleep.  But there was too much in my head.  I had met a childhood hero.  I met the one celebrity (I use the term loosely) that I would have chosen to meet out of all of the celebrities in the world. It took a couple of hours before I finally drifted off into a peaceful, contented sleep.

Karma

Being an AuPair to twins is much like being a referee:

I lay down the rules

Determine possession

Control time outs

Stop the game if someone steps out of bounds

Break up fights and

Put players in the penalty box.

Sometimes I feel like the girls behavior is karma for the way that I've treated The Stripes in the past, both as an athlete and a fan.  So, sorry Stripes, for all of my past infractions.

I’m sitting in a cute little cafe, drinking Kakao and eating a Linzer Auge.  I can’t help thinking what my brother would say if he happened to see me in this situation: in Europe, at a traditional cafe, wearing this hat and

So this week is starting to feel routine (by the way, back there <--- where I typed "is" I originally typed "ist" and had to correct it, maybe the german is coming more naturally).  Routine isn't bad, I actually like a good routine, I also love to make schedules.  Every Hell Week (the week before finals) and Finals Week that I was in college I created an hour to hour color coordinated schedule for myself.  If that's not OCD enough, I would usually do it in Excel so that it would be uniform.  I frequently spent more time working on this schedule than I would on a final project.  At any rate I'm starting to get more into the groove of things.  It's still really hard, the girls insist on Maria doing some things.  I understand this, I really do, but it's not like I can use the "Mom voice" and make them obey.  That's not my job is it?  One particularly trying time is getting the girls dressed to walk to Kindergarten.  This includes snow suits, boots, scarves (Schals), hats (Hüte) and gloves (Handshue).  It is a struggle every morning and eventually Maria has to come in and help because one or the other of the girls will have thrown herself on the floor completely limp, making it impossible to pick her up and sit her on a chair to get her dressed.  It's usually Melina, she's a total drama queen, and coming from me, that's saying something.  I get it, I do, if someone that wasn't my mother was trying to get me to leave my house, I'd be bugged too, even if I did know them.  But this is the way that Maria has chosen to do things, she has chosen to have an Au Pair and so it would be really nice if the girls would stop punishing me, hopefully things will get easier soon or at all.

So the past 2 weeks have started to feel like a true routine, I don't have to look at my check list 10 times any more.  I have found a better system with the girls that is actually working.  I do a little more planning and we have a little more fun, it used to be just play with the toys and read a few english books.  Now, we paint, and make messes, and do play dough, and sometimes we bake.  Activities have included:

Water colors (the girls have painting smocks so there's no anxiety there for me) we have big paper and the girls have a riot.  What Maria understands is that you don't have to keep every little thing that your kids paint, and I think that's great.  So after the girls have had their fun I use the papers to line the guinea pig cage.  It's fun and environmentally friendly.  One we did finger painting which was a terrifying concept for me.  I'm very aware of the messes in this house, any mess that remains afterwards is a reflection on me (or at least sometimes I think it is.)  But so I took the girls up to the bathroom (all tile including the walls) put a bunch of paper on the floor, took them down to the diapers and proceeded to paint the girls hands and feet.  And I flipped out a little every bit of paint that managed to get away from the paper.  I had a "duh" moment when I realized the paint would of course be water soluble,  so I ran around with wet wipes trying to stay on top of it.  Consequently I did not have as much fun as I could have or should have.  I've just got to loosen up a little and remember that the girls like me and that Thomas and Maria like me and I really am good at my job.  Afterwards I just plopped them in the tub and sprayed them off.  Then I let them play in the bubbles, dressed them and combed their hair.  

Another night we made really adorable penguins.  Maria has this cute simple craft book that has all sorts of animal projects using basic house hold items.  The penguins consisted of 3 round cotton pads (like you use for removing makeup) 2 of them painted black, 2 googly eyes, and an orange paper beak.  They were supposed to be glued onto some sort of painted landscape but instead we glued them to toilet paper tubes so they would stand up.  The girls always enjoy painting and while the paint was drying we ate muffins that we had made earlier. Then we glued the white pad and one of the black pads to the tp tube with the black one on top.  Then we cut the remaining black pad in half and glued the halves to the white pad as wings, then eyes and a beak and behold, baby penguins.  

Emily - Me - Melina

Melina - Me - Emily was taking the picture

The girls really seemed to love this project.  I think we’re going to make caterpillars soon and just paint the cotton pads all different colors and glue them to a strip of paper or maybe a paper towel tube.  If anyone has any cute crafty things like this (fairly simple and short, the girls are only three years old) please leave the idea or a link or something in the comment section.

We’ve also started baking a bit, in the last couple of weeks we have made: American Pancakes (which were really fantastically delicious and fluffy)

Little bread animals.  We made bread dough and then molded it like playdough before we let it rise.  We made turtles (die Schildkröte) and mice (die Maus), and birds (das Vogel) and crocodiles (das Krokodil) and snakes (der Schlange).  We used different seeds for eyes and patterns on the shells and the like.  They were really cute but the actual taste left something to be desired. And I think that something was salt.

Banana Muffins.  These were seriously delicious muffins, I left out the walnuts because the girls don’t like them.  So to make them less plain, I added a splash of maple syrup (Ahornsirup), and the fake stuff my family eats, but real, thick, beautiful amber syrup.  This made them super moist (I hate that word) and sweet.  The recipe called for a crumb topping, but brown sugar here isn’t the same as brown sugar in the States, so I sprinkles raw sugar on top (I love raw sugar, sometimes I just sneak a pinch and let the rough crystals dissolve on my tongue).  We ate them for Abendbrot even though it was really much more like dessert.  I also made them eat some protein.

I try to let the girls help as much as they can, it’s fun for them, but cooking with children is messy and potentially dangerous. So I let them do as much as I can without suffering an aneurism.  I measure everything and put it into separate bowls and cups so that the kids can add them and I don’t have to worry about them putting in too much backing powder or whatever.  It feels like a cooking show a little bit, with everything conveniently set aside to use when you need it.  It also makes it go faster at the kids stay engaged longer.  I had them mash the bananas for the muffins and I let them use the hand mixer under very close supervision.  They really love the hand mixer, I think I probably did too when I was little.  It makes you feel a little grown up to be using such an impressive appliance.  They also like to put the muffin cups in the tin.  I actually remember loving to do this.  I probably drove my parents crazy trying to help in the kitchen, there are so many concerns, the spinning blades of the hand mixer, the stove top, spilling the milk, eggshells in the batter.  On top of all of this, the contention of who gets to use the mixer first, who gets to crack the eggs.  This is another example of Karma.  I was a rotten source of stress for my parents in the kitchen and now Melina and Emily are a source of stress for me in the kitchen.  But I just need to relax, messes can always be cleaned up, a chip of eggshell can be picked out and we will all have more fun if I just chill out.  Instead of doing the mixing in the kitchen at the counter, I take it in to the dining room table, away from the potentially hot stove, where the girls can sit on the table and help instead of standing on their chairs and reaching precariously. I’ve found that as long as I tell them in advance who will go first or who gets to do what that there is relatively little contention.  And so cooking can be fun with the girls.

So this weekend I had my first real big adventure.  VIENNA! Seriously, it's like a dream.  I have literally dreamed about Vienna.  It was always one of those places that I wanted to see but never thought I would have the opportunity to.  And you know what's even more amazing? I'm going back in a month.  Not only did I get to see Vienna, I get to see it over and over again. So I suppose I should start at the very beginning.

There was some anxiety about my going to Vienna.  My father, being my father, had concerns about the trip.  He’d heard one too many stories about some stupid girl traveling abroad, alone, meeting some guy at a bar, leaving with him and disappearing forever.  Do I understand his concerns? Of course I do.  Was I going to let that stop me from experience the #1 city on my list of places to visit before I die?  Absolutely not.  I asked around my friends and ward to see if I should actually be concerned.  My bishop didn't think so, my YSA group didn't think so, and most importantly Thomas and Maria didn't think so.  And so my mind was set at ease, even if my father's never could be.  Friday afternoon Thomas helped me print up maps and the three of us planned my path for sight seeing and overviewed the subway system (which is really fantastic and easy) after that Thomas and Maria gave me an extra €50 for my trip, which was so very cool. They said it was a token of their appreciation for all of my great work.  So validation! YAY!

Marchtrenk Train Station Platform 2
Marchtrenk Bahnhof Bahnsteig 2

Saturday morning Thomas drove me to the train station.  It was unseasonably warm and had become so quite rapidly and as a result it was very windy, watch my hair get more ridiculous as the pictures progress.  I had to change trains in Linz which is where the adventure truly began.

*magical segue chimes*

I got to take a really fast train (like 170 km/h fast) called a RailJet which I was really excited for!  On the platform came my first big mistake that would ultimately lead to me not enjoying my RailJet.  That mistake's name was Ali (perhaps that's how it's spelled) I caught his eye as he got off of the escalator. By the time I noticed he was headed toward me I couldn't get my headphones in fast enough.  He came up to me and said (in decent english with a very thick (not germanic) accent) "when I saw you across that platform I knew I wanted to come talk to you." Flattering yes, a little creepy, also yes.  We proceed to introduce ourselves (first names only, I'm no dummy) he asked me where I was from what I was doing here.  Then he asked if we could sit together.  Apparently I'm a little bit of a dummy because I couldn't come up with a reason not to, or even just a "no thanks".   But I did tell him I had some reading I needed to do.  Apparently that doesn't mean "please don't talk to me" in Europe.  He continued to talk to me, telling me how nice I look and how he knew he wanted to talk to me, blah blah blah.  I would go back to my reading, he would ask my something else.  And it's not like the boy could enunciate, he spoke very softly, almost a mumble. Not to mention the whole language barrier.  So I had to lean in closer to hear what he was saying and then ask him to repeat things five times.  I think the leaning in bit was part of his sneaky plan.  Eventually the line of questioning got creepier and so the lying began:  No I'm not traveling alone. Yes I'm meeting a friend. No actually I don't have a phone number.  Yes I have a boyfriend back home.
Even when I did get the headphones in the questioning persisted.  Eventually he gave me his phone number, told me to call him, then he gave me another phone number.  I told him that I probably wasn't going to call, and by probably I meant definitely.  It's not really my thing calling random people I've never met before one day on a train.  Oh yeah and I forgot to mention that he let me have the window seat, which meant no chance for any sort of escape.  He offered to buy me something off the trolley.  If he hadn't been giving off the seriously creepy vibe it may have been a pleasant train ride.  When we finally got to Vienna (longest hour and a half of my life) I bid him adieu and walked purposefully (and like I knew where I was going) toward the subway station.  I bought my two day fahrkarte and got on the brown line for one stop.

My Vienna Tour view this map on the Google Earth setting, it's pretty cool.

I then wandered a bit in search of my hostel. Silly me had not zoomed in close enough on the google map.  So I bought a street atlas of the city at the subway station.  I sound investment as I will be going back in the future and when my family comes to visit we will be going there as well.  I found my hostel rather quickly after that, put my things in the locker in my room changed into a lighter jacket and headed out on the town. I grabbed a Kaseleberkasesemmel from a street vendor by the subway station and headed to the historic city center.  I found the club that the concert would be at that night (after some searching, walking past it 3 times and then asking directions) and started my walking tour. Which started at the University of Vienna. I am considering graduate school here.  One day, when my german is better I will actually tour the University and learn about programs and such.

  

It's a lovely old building (I'm sure there are more building but I just saw this one) and right next door is the Rathaus.  Basically like the city administration building.  The mayor's office is there and all that type of stuff.  However the building itself is fantastic!

During the winter they have an ice skating rink in front of the Rathaus I think I may give it a shot when I'm there at the beginning of March for Ben Folds.  That's right, I get to see Ben Folds in Vienna.

Next door is Parliament. A newer building in the Neo-Roman style.  And by newer I mean mid 19th century as opposed to mid 16th century.

Notice the hair getting crazier. I then rounded the corner toward the Volksgarten or the People's Park.  I didn't spend a great deal of time there as it's winter and not terribly beautiful right now, but it is large. The Burgplatz is the Center of the old city.  You walk past the Volksgarten, through the city gate onto a huge plaza which is historically the front courtyard of the Imperial Palace built by the Hapsburg family.  The Hapsburgs were the last imperial family of the Holy Roman Empire first imperial family of Austria after the fall.  Marie Antoinette was a Hapsburg, daughter of Maria Teresia and Franz Stephan (the last Roman Emperor) Anyway the Hofburg Palace was the winter home of the Imperial Family.

  

It's big and beautiful but not nearly as impressive as their summer Palace which you will see later.  Then I walked into Josefsplatz which is an inner courtyard.

My lighting was not great by this point in the day, sorry.

After you walk through Josefsplatz I walked past the Spanish Riding School it's a very interesting tradition.  A beautiful building with a dirt floor on which horses prance around ceremoniously.  It's kind of a big deal, it's on television a several times a year.

This is the dome outside of the Spanish Riding School

Through the dome is Michaelsplatz which has some exposed ruins from 14th century Vienna.

I next walked through Kohlmarkt the most expensive shopping in Austria.  Ya know when you look at on a label and it says the cities that have stores "Prague, London, New York, Paris, Vienna" this is the place.

I took these pictures mainly for Payden Adams, I thought he'd get a kick out of them and I found myself wishing he was there with me.

I then rounded the corner to a great little Gelato shop.  I don't remember what it was called but it was delicious, I had Hasselnuss, Minz und Schokolade.  Hazelnut, Mint and Chocolate.  And one of the guys working there looked like a young Ben Folds but with longish hair.  Just my type.  I didn't talk to him more than just saying hello and I figure it would have been creepy to take a picture so I didn't I just went on my way down Graben a beautiful square with very old buildings including the Petersplatz Kirche

Around the next corner was the most spectacular breathtaking sight of Vienna.

The first view of Stephansdom - St. Stephan's Cathedral

There is some restoration being done on the outside and so they cover the scaffolding with a facade of the building.

 


The roof is made of small tiles that were crafted by local artisans

 
                                                   Pulpit of John Capistrano

I was here Saturday evening and Sunday morning.  I attended the mass.  It was the Messa modale by Jehan-Ariste Alain in celebration of the 100th anniversary of the piece's debut.  It was really beautiful.  The lighting was a little better Sunday morning because the sky was grey instead of white.

I took about a hundred pictures of this building... I'm not exaggerating.  My photos don't even give it half the credit due.  When I walked in I was able to sigh "wow" and then was rendered completely speechless.

    

I stopped to pray for a bit and thank God for the beauty of the Earth and for my opportunity to be here and for the faith of the people that sacrificed so much for this beautiful building.  After Stephansdom I headed back to my hostel to change for the concert.  I didn't want to wear my wool peacoat to what I assumed would be a very smokey club.  I then headed up town near the university.  I found a cute little restaurant in which to eat Wienerschnitzel und Pommefritz.  That's right Wienerschnitzel in Wien. And it was everything a schnitzel should be; really delicious and crisp and so thin!  Schnitzel is pretty much anything that is fried Weinerschniztel happens to be veal cut very thin and pounded thinner with a wooden mallet.  It is then schnitzelized, which is to say breaded and pan fried.  Squeeze a little lemon juice on top (not too much otherwise the breading gets soggy [this is also why you never eat Saurkraut on top of Schnitzel as I learned from experience]) and you have my favorite thing to eat in Austria.

At the venue I waited with everyone else, overhearing conversations "practicing my german".  Come to find out the show is sold out... How can that happen, they don't sell out in Utah how are they going to sell out in Austria when they have two nights?!? well they did, I decided to wait around to see if anyone was getting rid of extra tickets.  In the meanwhile I met a couple of incredibly nice Hungarian boys.  They were only able to accrue one ticket before they came and so were in the same boat that I was.  We talked for a bit about my old band and what I'm doing here.  They offered me beer and cigarettes just like nice European boy should.  One spoke a little german and a little english, the other spoke only hungarian.  I wish I had been able to remember/pronounce their names, it would make telling this story much easier.  We'll call the one that speaks english Joska and his friend Adelbert.  So Joska went to check with someone about a ticket leaving me with Adelbert.  It was quite chilly and I was just wearing my/Richard Marsh's Ben Folds track jacket.  Joska had offered me his coat earlier and I politely and graciously declined.  I mean it was cold and he was just wearing a t-shirt.  But after he left, Adelbert offered me his leather jacket, I tried to say "no, thank you" but still seem nice just using gestures because of the whole language barrier.  It didn't work, I ended up wearing his delightfully soft leather jacket.  As the start of the concert grew nearer, and my trio was still waiting for tickets we started to really ask around.  Then after a short hungarian conversation  Joska and Adelberg offered me their one ticket.  I denied it and said that we should just wait a bit longer for two tickets.  Joska insisted that I go, that someone should use the ticket from the very beginning and that one of them wouldn't be going without the other.  I told them that I would only take their ticket on the condition that if they did happen to get in, they would meet me at the bar between sets and let me buy them a couple of beers.  Tickets tickets at the door for the would have been €20 but since Joska and Adelberg only paid €18 they would not let me pay more than that.  Seriously so nice. Gosh I wish I had caught their names!!! I want to be their facebook friend! I want to thank them! I want to send them gifts!  Joska taught me to say thanks in hungarian so I could thank Adelberg for his coat "Köszönet". Anyway I went into the show, which incidentally was not smokey, it was a smoke free bar.  The openers New Riot rocked! 

British 4th wave, very fun. I wish I'd bought their album. Dumb dumb dumb. I went to look for Joska and Adelberg but no luck.  I even walked all the way through the bar as far as I could and still be let back in.  I really hope they got in. 

Dan Regan and Aaron Barrett

Well even though the show was sold out and I left my place in between sets I got to the point where I only had one short girl in front of me and I was standing right in front of Aaron.  I don't know how this always happens but I end up with a short girl wearing a tank/tube top who refuses to pull her hair up and I always end up with their nasty hair stuck to my arms because of the humidity/sweat and other people's hair really freaks me out.

Aaron Barrett

During "You Don't Know" Aaron forgot the words to the second verse.  I shouted out "That's the way it is" the words to the beginning of the third verse he said "HA! That's not it either, we're in the second verse." So I said "SURPRISE!" and he said "Yep that's it" and continued on with the song. Then the Rabbit played a crazy awesome drum solo before the third verse.  People were very impressed with my ability to hold my place in the crowd and push back the mosh pit.  I met a pretty cool guy named Gerd.  We sang to each other and skanked together.  

After the show I said to Gerd "I want to drink all the water in the world" 

Gerd: I just want a beer

Me: Of course you do, you're Austrian, you drink beer like I drink water.

Gerd: that's not entirely true, I drink water just not after five or on the weekends

I thought it was funny.  Then I got on the train headed back to the hostel and got hit on by another creepy guy and told him I was meeting my boyfriend back at the hostel and he went away.

Sunday morning I went to Mass at Stephansdom and it was beautiful. 

After Mass I took a few more pictures then I walked to the National Library and Punksaal. Which had an exhibit dedicated to Richard Strauss' Der Rosenkavalier including original transcripts and the librettist Hugo von Hofmannsthal's first drafts with Strauss' motif ideas scribbled in the margins.  It was very cool, then I went to the Burggarten which is where Hitler announced the Anschluss or the annexation of Austria into Nazi Germany.  

Next I went to Schloß Shönbrunn.  Which was the summer palace of the Hapsberg dynasty.  And exactly what I imagine when I read Jane Austin.  You read about the people taking the carriages around their gardens and I never really imagined why that would be necessary, then I saw these gardens (multiple gardens) and they were astounding even though it was wintry.  I took the indoor tour where pictures were not allowed and then walked around the grounds for a couple of hours.  Then I headed home. I'll just upload the pictures here and then let you go.  This has been much took long in the writing.